Freelance travel journalist for 25 years for the Guardian, Telegraph, Independent, Times, etc. Author of award-winning My Family and Other Enemies: Life and Travels in Croatia's Hinterland
Autumn in Alentejo: ancient city sites and golden vineyards in Portugal
Despite its world heritage site status and plethora of tourist attractions, Évora, the capital of the Alentejo region, retains a laidback charm and has wonderful food and drink
Savouring delicious food and autumn sun in Croatia
Kvarner is a European Region of Gastronomy for 2026, and the laid-back islands of Lošinj and Cres are great places to explore its cuisine
I’m a Croatia expert – this small-ship cruise is the best way to discover the country’s food and wine
Mary Novakovich sets sail around the Balkan country to sample its extraordinary food and wine
It’s not all money, money, money here; the mellower side of Croatia’s Mamma Mia island
Beyond the tourist haunts there’s another side to Vis, with quiet beaches best explored by kayak and paddleboard, vine-covered hills and affordable waterside restaurants
Riding high in Germany on the world’s oldest suspended railway
Still gliding above the town of Wuppertal on an overhead track 125 years after it was built, the charming Schwebebahn has lost none of its magic
Britons increasingly swapping Med’s busy hotspots for ‘destination dupes’
TikTok trend is inspiring tourists to seek out cheaper locations such as Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina
‘Time slows down in Lastovo’: I may just have found Croatia’s most unspoilt archipelago
Five hours by ferry from Split – and a world away from the clubs of Hvar – the islands’ wooded hills, pine-shaded beaches and transparent waters are buzzing with nature
The new Riviera everyone should be talking about (and it's not in France or Italy)
The area south of Athens where the cultural capital meets a sandy coastline has been an open secret among Greeks for a while, but now more British holidaymakers are cottoning on to its Malibu-esque vibe
An alpine winter feast: cheese, wine and a side dish of snowshoeing in France
A medieval Haute-Savoie village makes a great base for a gourmet break, with delicious comfort food and local wines. And the snowshoeing and skiing aren’t bad either, if you can drag yourself away from the table
The secret French town with a beautiful Christmas market you need to visit
Amiens is often overlooked on the way to the nearby coastal havens in northern France
Island-hopping in Croatia: adrift in the Šibenik archipelago
Framed by sparkling blue sea and deep green pines, the less visited Adriatic islands of Zlarin and Prvić offer a mellow end of summer escape
The boutique cruise that sails to Croatia's lesser-known islands
Taking its passengers gently away from the crowds of Croatia's busier islands, this small-scale cruise visits quiet parts of the country where tourists are few and far between
The slow train to Greece
A leisurely three-day rail journey through France and Italy took me to a quieter corner of Greece's coast
‘Slow travel at its most joyous’: our three-week road trip to Croatia
Rather than bomb down motorways for marathon stretches, the idea was to see new things along the way, such as the great lakes of Germany and a Renaissance town in Italy
The beautiful Croatia coastline with fewer tourists
Mention Dalmatia, and Split and Dubrovnik usually spring to mind. But head to the northern stretch of this coastal Croatian region and you’ll find a road a little less traveled.